Our CSA partner, Kim Gerdeman, chief farming officer of Texas Prairie Farms, and I decided to offer a class on greens as a bonus for our members.
She’d talk about what grows well here in North Texas, and I’d demo a few recipes and offer tasting samples.
I wanted to get away from the idea that they’re always a side dish and they always have to be cooked to death to be good. I collected recipes for a few weeks, looking for ideas to pair with the varieties that Kim would have available in January.
Keeping in mind that it’s winter (despite it being sunny and 75 degrees here in Fort Worth yesterday), I wanted to present seasonal recipes, like braises and other one-pot dishes, and easy enough for the most basic home cooks to replicate.
The most popular of the six dishes were the barley risotto and the collards, but all were given a thumbs up.
Lemon barley with shrimp, bacon, and spinach
Adapted from “One-Pot Meals,” a publication of Fine Cooking magazine.
Serves 4
6 slices bacon
1 pound large shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled and deveined
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup chopped shallots or onion (I used shallots)
1 box quick-cooking barley
Juice of one lemon
2 1/2 cups chicken broth or stock (I used organic boxed chicken broth)
1/4 pound (4 cups loosely packed) baby spinach, washed and spun dry
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (or Pecorino Romano, or any other hard grating cheese)
Zest from one lemon
Cook the bacon in a saute pan over medium-high heat until browned and crisp. Remove from pan (leaving the fat in the pan), drain on paper towels, and crumble into small pieces.
Increase the heat to medium high. Sprinkle the shrimp with salt and pepper.
Working in two batches to avoid crowding, cook the shrimp in the bacon fat until lightly browned and opaque, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer the shrimp to a plate. Add the shallot or onion to the skillet and cook until it starts to soften, about 1 minute. Add the barley and stir until coated with the bacon fat, about 30 seconds.
Add half the lemon juice and cook, stirring, for 15 seconds. Pour in the chicken broth and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits in the pan. Reduce the heat to medium low, cover, and simmer until the barley is tender, 12 minutes.
Uncover the pan, raise the heat to medium high, and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the spinach and cook until wilted, 1 minute. Stir in the bacon, shrimp, cheese, and lemon zest and heat through, 1 to 2 minutes.
Season to taste with salt, pepper and remaining lemon juice, and serve immediately.
The surprise hit of the day were these wine-braised collard greens, a recipe from Houston chef Bryan Caswell of Houston, It appeared in Saveur magazine. Click here for the link.
I used a cloying sweet muscat from Texas’ own St. Genevieve winery, a bargain at $3-something a bottle, and Kim’s baby collards. Students who said they don’t normally like collards said they loved these.
My husband’s favorite dish involved pork chops, and was another winner from the “One-Pot Meals” magazine.
Pork chops with beer, cabbage, and apples
These pork chops are first gently browned, to give them a deep, caramelized flavor, and then simmered in a flavorful liquid to finish.
Serves 4
4 center-cut pork chops, about 1 1/2-inches thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 head Savoy cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and thinly sliced (I used a couple of small heads of Napa cabbage)
2 tart apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch slices (I used two organic Gala apples because it is what I had in the pantry.)
1 cup beer or ale (I used apple cider)
2 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1/2 tsp. dried)
1/2 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken broth (I used the organic boxed stuff)
Season the chops heavily on both sides with salt and pepper.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chops and cook on one side until well browned; turn and brown other side. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Put the onion in the pan and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the mustard and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add the cabbage and apples, season lightly with more salt, and cook, stirring, for another minute. Add the beer or cider, thyme, and broth. Bring to a boil and cook for about 5 minutes to intensify the flavors.
Return the chops to the skillet, burying them in the cabbage mixture. Cover the pan and simmer until the pork is just cooked through, about 15 minutes. Season to taste. Arrange the chops on plates and top with the cabbage.
Greens as a side dish, greens as a main dish. But greens as an appetizer? You bet! And I bet you can’t eat just one.
A recipe so easy, you hardly need a recipe. But here it is, anyway. Crispy Parmesan Kale Chips. Strangely addictive. Use good cheese.
I love pasta e fagioli, especially at Mancuso’s restaurant in far West Fort Worth. So this baked version really appealed to me.
Baked Pasta e Fagioli
Adapted from “Classic Comfort Foods,” a Taste of Home magazine.
Serves 8.
12 ounces multigrain rotini pasta, cooked, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water
4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large sweet yellow onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, strings removed, chopped
1 package turkey smoked sausage (optional for vegetarian version)
3 cloves garlic, minced or put through a garlic press
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cans Muir Glen organic fire-roasted chopped tomatoes
1 can white beans (navy or cannellini), drained and rinsed
1 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 bunch Swiss chard (about 1 1/2 pounds), trimmed and leaves chopped
1/2 cup or more shredded mozzarella cheese
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
In a large saute pan, heat oil and cook onion and celery until softened. Add sausage, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper and cook, stirring, for three minutes or so.
Stir in tomatoes and their juices, beans, broth and chard. Increase heat and bring to a boil.
Add pasta and reserved cooking water and stir to combine. Pour into a 13 by 9 inch baking dish and sprinkle with the cheeses. Bake until golden, about 15-20 minutes.
The least successful dish, I think, was the salad, which can be found here. While I loved the idea of it, mustard greens are just plain bitter to me. And the dressing needed work, lots of work.
After I tried adjusting all the dressing ingredients, I still couldn’t get something palatable. So I handed the recipe and bowl of dressing to Stephanie, my sous chef for the class, and asked her to “fix it.”
She did just that, and it was great. She added a little honey and Dijon mustard to it — classic salad dressing ingredients — and it balanced right out. Our group managed to eat all the salad, so I guess it wasn’t too bad.
The old saw about CSAs is this: “If you don’t like a vegetable in your CSA box, then deep-fat fry it. If you still don’t like it, dip it in ranch dressing.”
Having partnered with Kim the past couple of years in the CSA and getting to know our members, I daresay this does not sound like our group of adventurous eaters and cooks.
If I had to pick a saying for our bunch, it would be more along the lines of: “If you don’t like a particular vegetable cooked, eat it raw!”
And if you think you don’t like greens, give one of these recipes a try (except maybe the salad — I doubt it would win any converts).
If you have a really tough case, like a picky child or grumpy spouse, try mincing up the greens very small — parsley size, even — and adding them to a good vegetable-beef soup. Italian wedding soup, with tiny veal meatballs and shreds of very finely julienned spinach, is another way to sneak greens in.
Oh, and, by the way: I do teach this kind of thing for a living. If you’re interested in classes, find out more by clicking here. Thank you for your support.